At the end of this winter, Union Hill Kitchen & Craft Bar opened in Brewers Hill, replacing the longtime local favorite, Blue Hill Tavern, which for 15 years served elevated food and drink in a neighborhood known for its standard bar fare and beer.
Union Hill has filled the void nicely. The space is broken into distinct sections. There’s a large bar featuring a waterfall installation behind it and a smattering of high-top tables around it. On nice days the windows open, providing an indoor-outdoor feel. There’s a dining room downstairs, lounge upstairs, and plenty of tables on the second-story’s outdoor balcony.
Owner Matt Largent tapped chef Ryan Worthington and bar director Nico McElhone to create menus that combine classic offerings with contemporary elements.
“We want to be a neighborhood restaurant,” Largent told us in January. “We don’t want to pigeonhole ourselves into being just fine dining. We want to be elevated, but approachable.”
They’ve largely succeeded. Among the intriguing cocktails we tried during two recent visits was The Diplomat, a combination of Diplomatico aged rum and spiced walnut. Served in the style of an Old-Fashioned, it’s rich and evokes notes of chocolate. While it works as a pre-dinner beverage, it would be even better after the meal.
The El Jefe has a pepper printed next to its name on the menu, and one sip in we knew why. But if you like it mild, the spice level can be changed. Mi Campo reposado tequila is mixed with sweet hibiscus to produce a complex and slightly spicy drink. The Honey and Thorn, made with Ketel One Citron and Luxardo Triplum with a handcrafted shrub and crowned by a sprig of rosemary, is as floral and fragrant as it sounds. The Strawberry Serenade, which the menu describes as a “symphony” of gin, strawberry and citrus laced with bitters, was refreshing if not overly flavorful. There are also an impressive number of wines by the glass and plenty of local beers on tap.
With small plates like crispy short rib bites, yellowfin tuna tartare, and seared octopus, it’s immediately apparent that Union Hill is aiming for a different kind of dining experience. The Gooey Haloumi, served with crushed pine nuts, burnt honey, crispy garlic, and house pita, is kicked up a notch with added merguez sausage, and lives up to its name. We also ordered a Kapnos pizza as an appetizer for the table. You don’t often find smoked Gouda, roasted peppers onions and garlic, and tomato chipotle sauce on a pizza, but the combo worked.
The highlight of the main courses was the whole crispy branzino, served head-on with tangy green rice. A burger got the job done, and a local green salad with added grilled chicken was pleasingly hearty.
Union Hill was bustling during our visits, and we’re betting it will become even busier during the warmer months because of its stellar outdoor seating options and the recent addition of vegan dishes and a weekend brunch. It might make for a hill of a story.