Travel filled me up this year—Budapest, Berlin, Vancouver, Kyoto—but so did cranberry pecan bread from Ovenbird, Italian subs from Scittino’s Italian Marketplace, and many a gin martini with green olives from Dutch Courage and Petit Louis. In these turbulent times, when the world has sometimes felt tilted on its axis, communing with friends and family over a great meal remains one of life’s surest pleasures.
I’ve covered Baltimore’s food scene for more than a decade, yet it still feels new. That’s because it’s endlessly dynamic: new openings, familiar places reinventing themselves, and cooking that follows the seasons. I love talking to chefs, watching them work, and eating everywhere—from bars and docks to gardens and even parking lots (as I did while downing chicken gyros at Aleko’s in Middletown with my oldest son).
This was the year that comfort food soothed my soul (and stomach) and made everything feel just a little bit lighter. Here are 10 of my most memorable bites.
The Arroz Fosforera at Alma Cocina Latina
This Venezuelan play on paella at Alma in Station North features a tender tentacle of grilled octopus ringed by mussels and punctuated by dabs of pumpkin aioli. The seafood sit on a bed of boldly flavored and oh-so-crispy bomba rice.
The Tres Leches at Clavel
This is the platonic ideal of the dessert whose name means “three milks” (that’s condensed and evaporated milk, plus heavy whipping cream). Imagine eating a cloud.
Empanadas at Empa511
Having eaten empanadas on a visit to Peru a few years back, I can safely say that Jose Alarcon’s artisanal hot pockets are the real deal. Whether stuffed with chicken, pork, or pure vegetables, they’re all delicious, especially when dunked in the drinkable chimichurri. I buy them by the dozen from Alarcon’s new shop in Fells Point, eat a few on the way to my car, and then freeze the rest for the future—though they never last very long.
Pizza at Frank’s
Dave Portnoy was not wrong. (Nor was my car dealer who has been telling me for years that Frank’s has some of the best pizza around.) By the time I decided to make the pilgrimage to the famed Overlea shop, it took nearly 2.5 hours to get a to-go order. (The magic of going viral.) But it was worth the wait. In his “One-Bite” review, Portnoy called the pizza “spectacular,” and I’m inclined to agree. As a Philly girl, I was thrilled to find this type of Jersey-style pie—with a sturdy New York-style crust and ideal cheese-to-sauce ratio—right here in Baltimore.
Pastries at La Maison
Literally all of them, but if I had to name a few, I’d say the almond croissant and the morning kouign (laminated dough with brown sugar and cinnamon) are phenomenal. Grab a table at the new Cafe Dear Leon sister-cafe in Remington, pair the pastries with a cup of drip coffee sourced by Ceremony, and you’ve already had a terrific day.
The Crystal Shrimp Dumplings at NiHao
I’m a sucker for dumplings, especially the shrimp dumplings at Peter Chang’s Canton gem. These are perfectly plump beauties—a delicate rice wrapper stuffed with a hearty helping of steamed shrimp and gorgeously presented in a bamboo basket.
The Mushroom Burger at The Prime Rib
While not an obvious choice on a menu that includes the titular steak—plus a terrific crab cake and other assorted seafood— the burger at The Prime Rib is a bit of an under-the-radar powerhouse. It’s available at the bar, but can also be ordered at a table. When you’re craving a burger, this is the one you’re thinking of: a fat patty of USDA prime beef, plus Gruyère and a heap of mushrooms on a toasted brioche bun. A serving of mammoth onion rings on the side seal the deal.
Sandy Pony Donuts
This adorable donut shop with various locations throughout the DMV has all sorts of wonderful flavors, making choosing just one nearly impossible, but the Jingle Shells—chocolate glaze with rainbow sprinkles—speaks to my inner child. Colorful, whimsical, and secretly doused with “stardust,” these treats even starred in Apple TV’s Pluribus.
The Crab Pot at Woodberry
The crab pot—basically crab dip infused with sherry—at Woodberry Tavern is a nostalgic treat for those of us who remember it from the restaurant’s original menu. (The tavern is now a micro-sized version of the hallowed farm-to-table spot, set in the space adjacent to the former main dining room.) When you order anything with crab at Woodberry, rest assured, it’s always local. And the rustic house-made crackers that accompany the dish are outstanding all on their own.
The Shrimp and Grits Cocktail at Wye Oak Tavern
Another standout shrimp dish that made my list is the shrimp and grits cocktail at Bryan and Michael Voltaggio’s outstanding Wye Oak Tavern in Frederick. The appetizer features four poached shrimp sourced from the Gulf served alongside a side of shrimp toast made with grits and shrimp mousse. A side of spicy green cocktail sauce—made with tomatillos and green tomatoes and spiked with horseradish and cracked pepper—gives both presentations a terrific kick. The whole dish is a visual delight and utterly original, clearly showcasing why the brothers are true Top Chefs.
