Food & Drink

Bygone Baltimore Restaurants We Wish We Could Bring Back to Life

Staffers share which permanently closed eateries they miss most.
Martick's Restaurant Francais. —Courtesy of James W. Rosenthal via Wikimedia Commons

In honor of our “Kitchen Classics” cover story in our May issue (on newsstands now)—which revisits time-honored regional recipes and lets you know how to make them at home—we polled our staff to ask about classic Baltimore restaurants they wish they could revive. Here’s what they had to say:

Christopher Myers, Contributing Photographer

The Cultured Pearl which was in Sowebo. It was an eclectic, bohemian place to hang. Great Mexican food.

Christianna McCausland, Special Editions Editor

The Country Fare Inn in Owings Mills. To this day I wish I had the recipe for their September 7th cake.

Jane Marion, Food and Dining Editor

I miss Martick’s. On my last visit, my snakeskin handbag matched the wallpaper.

Jon Timian, Production Manager

Brian Badger’s gumbo stand that used to be in the Broadway Market. I miss that gumbo.

Justin Tsucalas, Contributing Photographer

The Dizz. Last place I ate before I got married. Also ate there about 50 times before that.

Lauren Cohen, Digital Senior Editor

Lobo! The cocktails, the toasty sandwiches, the onion dip with ripple chips, the staff! It was the perfect spot to unwind after a long day. RIP.

Lydia Woolever, Senior Editor

Martick’s. What I would give for a martini at that bar. Preferably with Jane Marion.

Marty LeGrand, Senior Contributing Editor

Maison Marconi. Its menu was as staid as its tuxedoed waiters, but that was its charm. My hazy memories: chopped salads, a shambling waiter, decadent chocolate sauce.

Max Weiss, Editor-in-Chief

I’m going to cheat and go with the entire artsy, bohemian Sowebo dining corridor: Cultured Pearl for grilled burritos, Tell-Tale Hearth for wood-fired pizza (ahead of its time), and the Gypsy’s Café, which had Baltimore’s most charming deck.

Megan McGaha, Digital Advertising Operations Specialist

Stewart’s Root Beer. The classic, vintage vibe is still so dreamy.

Michael Teitelbaum, President

Sid Mandell’s deli (Woodmoor) for special family meals when I was a kid. Famous for the Four by Four.

Michael Tranquillo, Senior Graphic Designer

I took for granted that Thairish would just always be around. It was a neighborhood staple for years. I’m not an expert in pad Thai, but nowhere else has come close since. The owner/chef had so much joy, and would greet you with a smile every time you walked in. Just a one-of-a-kind place.

Suzanne Loudermilk, Senior Contributing Editor

I’d like another chance to crack crabs coated with that wonderful black-pepper seasoning at Obrycki’s on Pratt Street. There’s a location at BWI now, but it doesn’t serve hard shells.

Vicki Dodson, Advertising Design Director

I’d choose Gampy’s or Louie’s, circa 1980s, or Donna’s (all in Mt. Vernon). But I’d enjoy them best in a time machine. That’s paramount.