Savoring Soul Power

Southern staples shine at the Charles Village eatery.

By Henry Hong - February 2014

Southern food comes to life at Georgia Soul Food

Southern staples shine at the Charles Village eatery.

By Henry Hong - February 2014

An “Everyday Meal” with a fried pork chop from Georgia Soul Food. -Photography by Ryan Lavine

When the vacant corner spot that once housed the venerable M & J’s Soul Food at 25th and St. Paul streets began to show signs of activity earlier last year, we were giddy with anticipation for the comfort foods it promised. Finally, Georgia Soul Food opened in August and has already amassed a loyal following. Some hardcore enthusiasts may decry the absence of soul-food pillars like hog maws and feet as heresy—the menu being a fairly vanilla roster of home-style dishes—but what Georgia does, it does well. The menu is straightforward with sections for chicken boxes, fish baskets, side dishes, desserts, and drinks. An “Everyday Meal” ($9.99) includes a main dish, like a turkey wing, two sides, and cornbread, and can be embellished with à-la-carte items that are almost anachronistically priced—for example, tilapia for $2.29, a pork chop for $2.19, and a fried chicken breast for $2.69.

On the restaurant’s website, georgiasoulfood.com, the new proprietors promise satisfying Southern soul food culled from the recipes of six generations and three families. And they follow through. The collard greens—always a reliable barometer—offer plenty of smoked neck flavor with a little bit of a kick. The other sides are impressive, too, from the flavorful mac and cheese and green beans to gooey candied yams. The usually humble baked chicken is outstanding, seasoned from the skin right down to the bone, and the fried chicken and fish are crispy and juicy. Salisbury steak with rice and gravy is a sleeper hit, and the fried pork chop (get it with gravy) is down-home delicious.

Whether you choose to carry out or sit in the sunny, cozy dining room, steal yourself for a lengthy wait (usually at least 30 minutes) for your food. Call ahead for to-go orders, and, for dining in, expect earnest but not exactly polished service. If your sweet tooth hasn’t already been sated by the yams, you can count on desserts like banana pudding and sweet-potato pie to do the job.

We liked the peach cobbler, but, for a truly monumental sugar buzz, wash down your food with some cherry Kool-Aid. There is so much sugar in it that it actually feels heavy—but then, that is the proper soul-food way.





You May Also Like


In Good Taste

Mother’s Day Meals and Sweets Available for Carryout This Weekend

Chefs get creative with takeout dishes to brighten the day for mom.

Food & Drink

Local Flavor Live Podcast: Despite Shutdowns, Restaurants Remain Resilient

We check in from quarantine about how the local dining scene is faring.

The Chatter

Black-Owned Food Businesses to Support in the Baltimore Area

Spend your money at these establishments and others to take action in a tangible way.


In Good Taste

Without Reservation: Dave and Tonya Thomas

Husband-and-wife duo, formerly of Ida B’s Table, talk about what’s next.

In Good Taste

Sergio Vitale Leads Charge to Offer Open-Air Dining in Little Italy

After pushback from the mayor, Aldo's owner talks what's next for the neighborhood.

Food & Drink

Mt. Washington Tavern Pours One Out For The Preakness Stakes

Make your own Black-Eyed Susan with tips from owner Rob Frisch.

An “Everyday Meal” with a fried pork chop from Georgia Soul Food. -Photography by Ryan Lavine

Connect With Us

Most Read


The Womanist Reader Creates an Online Library of Black Literature: A Baltimore writer curates an evolving list of women writers for her women followers.

Five Things to Know About Democratic Mayoral Nominee Brandon Scott: The 36-year-old City Council President rallies past Sheila Dixon to win Democratic mayoral primary.

Amid The Economic Chaos, Downtown Partnership’s New President Has a Plan: Shelonda Stokes was just named president after serving in an interim leadership role.

How These Surprise Quarantine ‘Flower Bombs’ Are Helping Families in Need: The paper-plate flowers have become a massive fundraiser for the Ronald McDonald House.

Baltimore Pride’s Legacy Lives On Despite Canceled Festival: Community comes together virtually to celebrate with discussions and events.