Food & Drink

Handpies Make a Comeback at Area Bakeshops

The pies, sweet and savory, are popping up all over Charm City.
—Photography by Scott Suchman

From the United Kingdom’s Cornish pasties to the fried savory “doubles” (a breakfast street staple) that are prevalent in Trinidad and Tobago, many cultures claim hand pies as their own.

Here at home, the pies, sweet and savory, are popping up all over Charm City, including the duck confit gumbo pies at Pie Time (available at the new Patterson Park storefront and area farmers markets), the blueberry rhubarb riff at Charlsie’s Bakehouse in Federal Hill, and these fruit-filled beauts (pictured above), from cinnamon apple to sour cherry, in a variety of appealing shapes from Lutherville-Timonium’s Stone Mill Bakery.

Why have these mini me’s made a resurgence?

“They’re an easy snack,” says Stone Mill pastry chef Cristina Quinteros. “Based on where you grew up, small, filled pies can be a part of your heritage. When we migrate, eating familiar foods maintains our bond with home. Hand pies, Pop Tarts, knishes, empanadas—call them what you want, as long as they’re wrapped in pastry and will fit in your hand.”