The spot serves up serious aesthetics (think: lovely glassware, kababs and tahdig on silver trays, and thoughtful garnishes) that are uncommon in strip-mall dining.
Raba's new family spot in Stoneleigh is intentionally at the opposite end of the culinary spectrum as Clavel, the hip Remington taquería that earned him national attention. But he runs both kitchens with same level of authority, compassion, and attention to his own history.
Sitting inside Clavel feels like the sunburnt sidewalks and beaches where I became obsessed with Mexican food are just outside my front door, metaphorically if not actually.
A seemingly permanent line waits for a seat inside Clavel in Remington, which is not only a restaurant, but a nixtamaleria, a mezcaleria, and one of the hippest places in town.
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